While we graded out trousers pattern according to average proportionate men's measurements, some additional altering and/or fitting may be necessary for some costumers due to variations in height, weight, build, musculature, neck size, and general physique.
That's we highly recommend making a muslin test or a "practice" garment of some kind (other than to familiarize yourself with its construction, that is!) - you can make the necessary sizing observations (e.g. the waist needs to be taken in, the hips need to be let out, the pant legs need to be extended, etc.).
Fitting does require extra time and effort on the part of the costumer, but the finished garment's custom-tailored look will definitely be worth it!
There are three main aspects of the garment that may need adjustment and/or the original pattern need be altered: the waist, hips, and length.
Our trousers pattern's waist and hips measurements are graded in increments of 2", which should comfortably accommodate most peoples' physiques, but it's possible that either or both measurements fall between two of our pattern sizes.
We have included 1" side seam allowances for fitting purposes, so if your trousers are too tight around the waist, hips, or legs, they can simply be let out up to 1 ¼" (that's ⅝" on both the front and the back) on each side - that is, a total expansion of up to 2 ½" at the waist and hips (thus actually being larger in those areas than the next largest pattern size!) and up to 1 ¼" on each pant leg.
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| Model: Alex Beard |
For instance, I (Alex) have scrawny little chicken legs, so pant legs being too tight isn't much of an issue for me, but other people might have a beer gut, large rear, or very muscular legs that require the trousers to be let out in one or more of these areas.
However, I (Alex) have a 37" waist and 42" hips, which is very close to the trousers' pattern size 36.
So, in my case, I used the size 36 to make my trousers and let the side seams out ¼" (that's a total of ½" adjustment on each side and a total adjustment of 1") along the uppermost foot or so, gradually tapering into the original seam line and trimming the seam allowances down to the recommended ⅜".
The trousers can be lengthened and shortened as needed at two places to achieve an ideal fit.
At whichever portion(s) of the body need to be lengthened, cut the pattern along one of the horizontal lines so it is two separate pieces, insert a small piece of paper underneath the two pieces, (a standard 8 ½" x 11" page will work nicely, as well any cheap craft paper you might have sitting around, or you could even put some of that junk mail to good use!), tape the three together, and, making sure the upper and lower portions are properly aligned (i.e. not straight and not crooked/slanted/etc.), use a ruler as a guide and draw a line on each side to connect them. Cut along these lines to form your new, extended pattern piece.
Again using myself (Alex) as an example, I have a longer-than-average waist, so I need to lengthen the upper portion of the trousers by 1" so they doesn't ride up in the crotch uncomfortably in the front and give me a wedgie in the back (TMI?).
Obviously, the same adjustment needs to be made to all of the panels for the trousers to go together properly.
To shorten the garment, simply fold the pattern paper upward at the lines then back down again, or cut along one of the horizontal lines as if you were lengthening it and overlap the upper and lower portions however much is necessary, straightening the edges if needed.
You may find that if you lengthen or shorten the trousers at one of the fitting lines, you may need to compensate by adjusting the other ones as well. (For instance, as I mentioned, I need to lengthen the upper portion by 1" to accommodate for my longer-than-average waist, but this makes my trousers too long, so I need to shorten them by 1" along the lower fitting lines.)
CONGRATULATIONS!
YOU'RE FINISHED!
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